By Patrick
2012年4月8日 (一)
Fashion?
流行,是一種現代性的趨勢,現代性興起於十九世紀中葉,主要是由求新求變及摧毀舊的一切兩種力量結合。百貨公司作為現代資本主義的一個代表,因為提供女性就業機會以及進入公領域甚至是婦女運動。其實,Fashion並不代表就是一種全新品。Fashion是一種循環,在循環中又不斷求新求變。
Fashion and Image?
影像,不管是靜態或動態的影像,都可以視為一種Image。譬如一張Madonna的照片,或者是在她MV中的一個片段,從這些image可看出瑪丹娜所要表達的概念,藉由Image的顏色、穿著打扮等來表現自我,Madonna則是將這些Image與Fashion做結合,帶領出Madonna炫風。
Fashion and Identity?
身份認同,在傳統的時代裡,時尚代表的是一種階級身份,是不可以逾越的。在現代性未出現前,因為受到階級制度的影響,貴族、 中產階級、平民、奴隸的穿著是受到規範的。但身份認同並不只有侷限於此,每個人在社會裡都具有不同的身份;而人對自己的身分認同很大的來源是來自於Fashion。例如:今天穿著打扮的風格以及配件所組成對自己的Image即是一種Identity。透過Fashion可以改變一個人的Identity,所以,身份認同不再是一成不變,而是可以靠Fashion自由組合自己的形像,Madonna就是一個很極端的例子。
Madonna, Fashion, and Image
在傳統上的identity是某個既定的形象,但Madonna卻顛覆了這傳統的思維。Madonna認為身分認同是可以靠Fashion來改變的。當我們談到Madonna的多變性不得不從Fashion與現代性切入。Madonna在1983年出道,與MTV台幾乎在同一時期出現,就某個程度而言,Madonna是仰賴影像為自己打廣告;瑪丹娜在第一支MV【Lucky Star】中她的墨鏡表現出PUNK的反叛,穿著小背心搭上漁網罩衫等低廉的Flash Trash與MV中不斷扭腰擺臀的行為,讓當時美國政府觀念較為保守的雷根,較不能接受Madonna的暴露行為,而Madonna的出現間接影響到當時較保守的雷根政府及柴契爾夫人。
瑪丹娜曾說:「我一直沒有策略,我從來不告訴自己下一張要做哪一種風格的專輯,只是隨著感覺走,我只是希望我的歌在十年後仍然聽不膩。」這為他此後的各種風格的改變寫下很大的伏筆。
接下來我們來談談 瑪丹娜從出道至今 在音樂時尚圈所帶來的驚喜與變化 :
January 28, 1985: No one had to ask who's that girl when Madonna hit the red carpet of the American Music Awards in a sultry Jean-Paul Gaultier corset dress and her signature strands of beads, crucifixes and pearls. Edgy, with just a hint of the elegance to come.
1985-1-28 在當年以【who's that girl】音樂獎紅地毯, Madonna 走龐克風格,金屬、皮衣、十字架、珍珠,黑皮套,
以判逆形象再受注目。
July 31, 1987: Madonna's love for bustiers began to bubble up as she performed in Chicago during the Who's That Girl world tour. The black leather and zipper-detailed one piece mimics the eye-popping peep-show outfit made famous in her "Open Your Heart" video.
1987-7-31 Madonna 在芝加哥 Who's That Girl 巡迴演唱會,演唱【Open Your Heart】當時保守時代以馬甲緊身超短褲和網襪
走性感女神風格。
Harry Winston鑽石,成功塑造性感女神形象
September 9, 1998: At the 1998 Academy Awards, Madonna walked the red carpet wearing one of Jean-Paul Gaultier's chic skirts paired with a black silk over-garment by Olivier Theyskens, resulting in a look that was both poetic and graceful.
1998-9-9 1998奧斯卡獎紅地毯,穿著由
October 23, 1998: Madonna went in an entirely different direction for her second VH1 Fashion Awards outfit -- a traditional royal-blue sari that referenced her growing interest in Eastern cultures and religions.
1998-10-23 在VH1 時尚大獎走全然不同風格,以傳統藍色沙麗引用她成長環境與東方文化與宗教有關
July 21, 2001: Madonna greets fans with a brand-new punk aesthetic. Here, she opens her Drowned World Tour in Philadelphia wearing a plaid kilt and coordinated top, paired with leather bondage pants.
2001-7-21 在費城世界巡迴賽,以格子裙皮格裝飾,搖滾女孩新風格
April 22, 2003: Even when Madonna dresses down, she still manages to turn everyone's head. Madge performed songs from her album 'American Life' at the MTV studios in New York City in an unfussy striped knit shirt and flared black slacks -- a look that oddly felt more French than American.
2003-4-22 即使Madonna 不穿著禮服也會用帽子裝飾,演唱【American Life 】條紋上衣休閒寬褲在紐約MTV工作室,
不過看起來像法國,穿著確實是表達音樂意境跟心情轉折,
November 3, 2005: At the MTV Europe Music Awards in Lisbon, Portugal, Madonna revealed her new 'Hung Up' disco phase in a purple bomber jacket and matching purple boots.
2005-10-3 在葡萄牙舉行MTV 歐州音樂獎, Madonna更以紫色夾克紫色馬靴緊身內褲穿著,視覺意識濃厚
November 19, 2008: Only Madonna could get away with wearing head-to-toe Louis Vuitton to a Gucci event. The singer rocked a green-feathered mini from LV's spring 2009 collection at Gucci's launch of the Tattoo Heart Collection to Benefit UNICEF dinner at The Plaza in New York City.
2008-11-19 在CUGGI活動中,以綠色羽毛黑羽毛短酷展現不同時尚風格
November 3, 2010: Though she's a mother of four, Madonna proved she hadn't lost her edge when she turned up to the Fashion Delivers Gala in New York wearing a pair of over-the-knee Stella McCartney PVC boots and a silver crocheted tunic.
2011-10-3 雖然已是四個小孩的媽,但她在時尚界還存留一席地位,她以
January 15, 2012: Now a two-time Golden Globe winner, Madonna looked ready for a couture battle in this metallic, Reem Acra pre-autumn/winter 2012-13 dress at the Beverly Hills ceremony.
2012 -1-15 兩屆金球獎得主,以金屬搭混搭設計洋裝出席,將準備比佛利山裝Reem Acra的pre-autumn/winter
topped off by a glittering Cleopatra crown., Givenchy的Riccardo Tisc‘服裝戴上撰文 : 總編輯Patrick (張廷富) 編輯Naomi(亞韻子) 資料: Billboard/吳岱愍/黃美茹 照片: Billboard提供
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